A floating bed frame elevates the look of your bedroom space by promoting sophistication, luxury, and organization. The invisible platform base replaces the visible legs, giving the illusion that the bed is floating mid-air.
To make your own floating bed frame, start by knowing the bed size to help locate the center of gravity. Also, determine whether or not you want extra features like LED lighting, safety sides, and floating nightstands.
Floating bed frames are more expensive than the standard bed frames. However, the price tag should not shun your dreams of owning and sleeping on a floating bed frame. It is why we are presenting to you a step-by-step guide to making your own floating bed frame;
Equipment for Constructing a Floating Bed Frame
You will need the following tools and equipment for your Do-it-yourself (DIY) floating bed frame construction;
- A Carpenter's pencil
- A Circular saw
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Impact driver
- Safety glasses
- Speed square
- 10-inch compound miter saw
- Framing square
- Woodworking clamps
- Straight edge
- Wood glue
- Construction adhesive
- Self-tapping wood screws
Things to Note before You Begin;
Take note of the following before you start to make your own floating bed frame;
Determine the Dimensions of your Bed Frame
Most bed frame constructors give details on constructing a standard Queen-sized bed, whose dimensions are sixty by eighty inches. However, you can alter your dimensions to suit any bed. With this, align the support blocks and the center boards on the base platform and the top bed frame.
This DIY project uses dangerous power tools like a circular saw and a 10-inch compound miter saw. We endorse going ahead only if you know how to handle these tools safely. If not, seek the help or guidance of a professional or an experienced party.
Also, we recommend using self-tapping screws that do not need pre-drilling. Such reduces the chance of you splitting wood and making your floating bed frame a safety hazard in the future. However, if you must pre-drill, do it carefully and ensure they are ideal for standard screws.
Step-by-Step Guide to Make Your Own Floating Bed Frame
We are providing a guide for a standard queen-size bed. Still, feel free to tweak it to fit your desired dimensions. Here are the instructions for making your own floating bed frame;
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Step 1: Cut the Lumber for the Base Frame and the Top Frame
Note that the floating bed frame is prone to having less balance than standard bed frames. Therefore, your goal is to ensure that the bed foundation is robust, safe, and steady while remaining invisible.
Use the 10-inch compound miter saw to cut the lumber for your bed frame. Ensure that you come up with the following for the base frame;
- 2 two by sixes at forty-eight inches.
- 3 two by sixes at fifty-six and a half inches.
- 6 two by sixes at twenty-two and a half inches.
- 10 two by fours at eleven inches.
- Use your miter saw to cut the lumber to attain the following dimensions for the top frame;
- 2 two by sixes at sixty inches.
- 3 two by sixes at seventy-eight inches.
- 10 two by sixes at twenty-eight and a half inches.
Step 2: Cut the Plywood for the Top
Use a table saw or a circular saw to cut the plywood for the top. Ensure that you come up with two sheets of plywood, each measuring forty and a half by sixty inches.
Use the chalk to indicate your cut mark. If you have limited experience using a circular saw, use a straight edge measuring eight feet for guidance and precision. It will result in clean plywood sheets for the top side of the floating bed frame.
Step 3: Assemble the Bottom Base
Measure from one end of one of the forty-eight-inch boards and place a mark at twenty-three and a quarter inches. Ensure that you do this at the top edge of the forty-eight-inch board. Using a speed square, mark a straight line perpendicularly on the board face. Put a star mark on the outside of the board, where you pull your tape measure from.
Now, lay down the marked forty-eight-inch board, add the unmarked one, and place them edge to edge. Using a framing square, transfer the marks onto the unmarked forty-eight-inch board. The center support board will go where these marks are.
Put one of the boards measuring fifty-six-and-a-half inches to the outer part of one of the forty-eight inches boards. Proceed to secure it. Place the edge of the fifty-six and a half-inch board on the face of the forty-inch one, ready for screwing. Now, drive two two-and-a-half-inch self-tapping wood screws via the back of the forty-eight-inch board and into the fifty-six-and-a-half.
Repeat the steps on the other end of the forty-eight board with another fifty-six and a-half-inch board.
Step 4: Secure the Center Support Board
Put the edge of the center support board measuring fifty-six-and-a-half inches to the starred point on one forty-eight-inch board. Confirm that the center support board edge aligns to the straight mark you put on the twenty-three and a-quarter inches point. The mark is at the top edge of the forty-eight-inch board.
Drive two two-and-a-half-inch self-tapping wood screws via the back of the forty-eight-inch board and into the center support board.
Step 5: Install the Base Frame Blocking
Measure the forty-eight-inch board and mark every thirteen-and-a-half-inch point on the top edge of the fifty-six-and-a-half-inch board. Using a speed square, perpendicularly draw a line across the face of the board at each of these marks. Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the frame and the center support board. Here is where your support blocks will go, each measuring twenty-two-and-a-half inches.
Align one edge of the support block to one of the marks and fasten with two wood screws. Put one end of the support block to the conforming line and put a mark on the center support board. Then, toenail two screws, passing through one side of the support block into the fifty-six-and-a-half-inch board. Toenail a screw via the core of the opposite side of the block and into the fifty-six-and-a-half-inch board.
Repeat these for all the six support blocks for all the six makes you made earlier.
Step 6: Install the Vertical Slats onto the Base Frame
Put one eleven-inch 2*4 vertical slat into the bed frame's four inside corners. It is where the three forty-eight-inch boards meet the two fifty-six-and-a-half-inch boards. Place the two-and-a-half-inch face of the 2*4 against the five-and-a-half-inch face of the forty-eight-inch board, then secure using two screws.
Repeat the process by securing the remaining six 2*4s to the insides of the support blocks and the fifty-six-and-a-half-inch boards.
Step 7: Assemble the Top Frame
The top frame is larger than the bottom frame, and it sits on top, giving the floating effect. Start by measuring your sixty-inch boards and marking every twenty-nine-and-a-quarter-inch mark. Draw a line perpendicularly and transfer the marks to the second board to determine where the center support board goes.
Place the edge of the seventy-eight-inch board against the face of the sixty-inch board, then secure with two self-tapping screws. The screws go via the back of the sixty-inch board and into the end of your center support board. Repeat for the opposite side.
Step 8: Install the Top Bed Frame Blocking
Measure from one of the ends of the sixty-inch boards, mark every thirteen-and-a-quarter-inch point, and fasten. It should be along the top edge of the seventy-eight-inch board. Mark perpendicularly and repeat for the other sides.
Place the edge of the support block against the outer part of one of the seventy-eight-inch blocks. Mark at every thirteen-and-a-quarter-inch point on the seventy-eight-inch board, then secure with self-tapping screws. Toenail two screws and repeat for all ten blocks.
Step 9; Attach the Top Frame to the Bottom Frame
Let a helper assist you in lifting the top frame and onto the base frame. Ensure that the center support of the top frame steadily rests on that of the bottom frame. Also, ensure that the blocks of each frame are in alignment.
The vertical 2*4s emanating from the bottom frame should rest against the face of the blocks of the top frame. Proceed to fasten by driving two wood screws through the vertical slats and into the top bed frame blocks.
Step 10: Attach the Plywood to the Top Bed Frame
Using a caulking gun, put an even coat of construction adhesive over the top bed frame's top edges. These top edges include the top sides, the ten blocks, and the center support block.
Put the plywood board on the top frame while ensuring that the two forty-and-a-half-inch sides meet at the center. In addition, ensure that the sixty-inch sides align with the exteriors of the bed frame. Drive one 5/8-inch self-tapping screw. Do this at every twelve-inch point around the entire bed frame and down the plywood center.
Your floating bed frame is ready to use. To spice up your floating bed frame, add LED lights or floating bedside nightstands.
Making your own floating bed frame saves you money and allows you to be creative. This process could take between three days and one week. Remember to use self-tapping screws as they fasten the project and make the bed frame secure and robust.
Feruza is a mom and a blogger. She had a neck pain for 15 years, which made her interested in everything about pillows.
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